What's Cooking

The month of July has to mean Strawberries and Pink Champagne. At Trinity we source food, cook food and anticipate food by the seasons and one of the many joys of this ethic is the sheer anticipation factor… let me explain. Come February I am totally over braising Beef, could not peel another Chestnut or glaze another Parsnip, same in October where the sheer thought of a box of Peas and another shipment of the reddest Italian Vine Tomatoes sadly, fills me with dread. But right now, like all good things because we have withheld our temptations (unlike some other rather lazy chefs out there - you know who you are!) we are like children on Christmas Eve awaiting the arrival of that British gem the English Strawberry, Raspberry and all things pink, red and sweet. We have waited and shall reap the reward with infectious enthusiasm!

We choose the finest English specimens but don’t shy away from some of the most delectable and perfumed strawberries ever, the French “Mare De Bois”! Oh my, if you haven’t, you must and then again without telling your friends in case they jump the ferry and export the lot! These are quite simply the best I have ever eaten; if my wife would absorb the footprint I would fly to Lyon and back for a punnet each morning.

Of course like any greatest hit, we overuse the English Strawberries in Pavlovas, Tarts, and we make a Gazpacho - chilled raw, pressed juice which is divine served with strawberry ripple ice cream and loads of fresh hulled fruit. (See my below Raspberry Pavlova recipe, which works the same when replaced with Strawberries, Blueberries and even Blackberries later on in September).

My advice is simple, when at their very best or picked at PYO a spoon should be the only garnish, and even then only when you’re in unknown company or are wearing shoes! Otherwise if slightly un-sweet or picked under ripe examples should be treated to a dash of icing sugar, a few drops of balsamic and banished to a warm place for a few hours, the result is a semi stew which can be added to a fool, eaten with clotted cream or used for summer pudding but giving the advantage of leaving you with a divine juice which you can use for adding to that cheaper dusty bottle of champagne lurking in the corner. It really can spruce up a chilled glass of bubbles and give the impression of a glass of its well healed cousin the Rose Champagne.

Speaking of which, when summer comes Pink Champagne is a must and there is none more decadent that our house champagne at Trinity, I am so proud to be working with such a revolutionary champagne house such as “Bruno Paillard”. I’m sure even our dog is familiar with its name! It’s rose version, is up there with some of the leading champagnes of the world and delivers a natural sweetness that matches many a great house, it’s available at great wine outlets and I highly recommend it for those in the know. Alternatively though, Billecart Salmon Rose is a firm favourite of mine on a summers day, with a BBQ or simply to enjoy as an aperitif with friends, it’s a great refreshment that does what champagne should do and that’s make you feel summery and ultimately happy!

Dr. Boteler (William Butler) said of strawberries:
“Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never did."

Here is a rundown of some strawberry varieties and there characteristics to help in your selection of these summer delights!

Elsanta:
The leading strawberry variety in the UK, large, firm, glossy fruit

Alice:
Flavour is consistently sweet with a juicy texture. The fruit is attractive with a glossy finish and a bright orange-red colour. Alice is a late mid-season dessert type that offers good fruit size and quality.

Darselect:
The fruit has a very good, sweet taste, with a strong, traditional, aromatic fragrance, are large with good shape, flesh is light red and firm, with a strong brick red skin. Store well if required and do not darken in store

Alpine strawberries: 'Mignonette'
French delicacy. Produces scarlet red fruit that has an intense 'wild' aroma. Let a few ripe fruit sit in a bowl in a room and before long you'll notice the heavenly scent. This is the one that's said to be put into champagne to flavour it!

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Summer Sundays

Sunday’s at Trinity are a joy and represent everything great about living and dining local in London, a great classic Sunday lunch with all the trimmings enjoyed with great wine in a relaxed atmosphere.

The menu changes weekly and represents everything Sundays should. Although the Roast Aged Fore Rib will remain through the summer some lighter mains options will be included. Puddings remain familiar, classic and truly Sunday! £25 for a three course set lunch, children as always are well catered for with half price options and most welcome. Check out our Sunday lunch menu here.

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The new menu

We have just launched the summer menu with dishes such as the Pigs Trotters staying with us and sadly the English Asparagus and Courgette Flowers coming to an end. We have added the Landes Foie Duck plate, all things duck and foie gras united on one plate - a firm favourite of the boys!

A super summery tart of Sardines and Tomato with Sicilian Pesto and Almonds, a classic Bouillabaisse and a Pork Belly dish with Peas and Ginger Carrots, a firm favourite and also features on the lunch menu all week long!

Oh how I love cooking in the summer!

See the full menu on our website here.

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The first from Trinity’s Finest!

Joe has worked along side me for over four years and is the Head Chef at Trinity, a south London lad with bundles of talent and an amazing eye for detail.

Jo was asked to comment on what he feels is the future for food. Here are his views of food in the modern eye. If you have any points you wish to share with Joe or questions on this, or just want to talk amazing food! Feel free to e-mail him at joe@trinityrestaurant.co.uk

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Joe’s Bit

The pioneering work of chefs such as Heston and Ferran is slowly trickling down through most kitchens and many of their innovative and wacky methods are being used or adapted around the country.

Like Heston from time to time we use dry ice to make ice cream. Below is a simple and easy home recipe to produce ice cream using this modern technique. The very adventurous home chef may want to experiment with other chemicals. In the kitchen Agar-agar, the jelly-like medium used by many labs to grow cultures in Petri dishes, is used to replace gelatine in many recipes and Xanthan gum, syrup made from bacteria, can take the place of corn starch.

The easiest way you can use one of these techniques at home is using dry-ice to make ice cream. All you need is dry ice (which you can buy from disco suppliers); a standard food mixer such as a magi mix, we use a Swiss made thermo mix, and the basic ice-cream ingredients:

500ml Jersey whole milk
300ml double cream
80g unrefined caster sugar
100g glucose syrup
1kg dry ice

1. Put the milk, cream, sugar and glucose syrup in a pan, and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved and the glucose is liquid. Set aside.
2. Put on safety gloves and protective goggles, and open the packet of dry ice. Wrap it in a tea towel and then a hand towel and smash it into a powder with a rolling pin. Unfold the towels and shake the powdered dry ice into a glass bowl.
3. Pour the milk and glucose mix into the bowl of a food mixer. Shake a little dry ice into the bowl and, using the mixer's paddle, mix on the slowest speed until the dry ice dissolves and its vapour clears. Add dry ice a little at a time until the ice cream has absorbed it all. Add the dry ice in small quantities to stop the ice cream going grainy. Once the dry ice is absorbed, beat the ice cream on the next fastest speed until smooth.
4. Quickly scrape the ice cream out of the mixer and into a container. Store in the freezer until required.

Happy Scientific Cooking!

Joe

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T  R  I  N  I  T  Y
4 The Polygon
Clapham Common
London SW4 0JG

Reservations: 0207 622 1199

www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk
dine@trinityrestaurant.co.uk

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